December 8, 2023
What was supposed to be a “short” 40-mile trip—though “short” is quite a relative term these days—around the tip of Baja to Los Frailes turned into an adventure. We’d heard from our friends on SV Ambrosia that Los Frailes had incredible snorkelling and diving, some of the best they had experienced on their last trip. We were buzzing with excitement to get there and explore for ourselves. If everything went smoothly, this would be our final stop on the Baja Peninsula before crossing the Mexican mainland.
As we set off, there wasn’t a breath of wind in the anchorage, but that didn’t matter. Mark had rigged up some new fishing lures and was on a mission to catch something fresh—after weeks of Tuna, a Dorado would be a real treat. The sun shone as we motored along, carefully dodging the occasional sport fishing boat that hugged the coastline. We kept our eyes peeled for whales, dolphins, and any other sea life that might grace us with their presence, all while cruising past luxurious houses perched high on the cliffs.
Fishing
On our boat, we use handlines instead of a traditional fishing rod and reel, so there’s no thrilling “zip” sound when a fish bites. Instead, we listen for the Coke can’s telltale rattle filled with beans attached to the line. And then it happened—the rattle exploded into action on the stern. We caught a fish! Mark eagerly pulled in the line, and there, flashing beneath the surface, were the vibrant greens and yellows of our first Dorado!
We put the lines back in the water. There was still space in the freezer, so why not try for another? Rattle, rattle! Another catch! But this time, as Mark hauled in the line, we didn’t see the familiar green and yellow or the chunky football shape of a Tuna. Instead, a long, tiger-striped fish emerged. After a quick Google search (thanks, Starlink), we discovered we had caught a Wahoo. Woohoo!
By now, the weather had started to change. The wind picked up—but from the wrong direction—and the current turned against it, whipping up short, steep waves. We could have sailed, but with our destination so close, we both agreed it was best to continue motoring and avoid a long day of tacking against the headwind. So, we bounced along in the choppy waves, occasionally taking one across the bow.
Exploring Los Frailes
The anchorage at Los Frailes is tucked behind a towering rock wall, offering a bit of shelter from the prevailing winds. Once anchored, we wasted no time jumping into the water to explore. Although it was late in the day, and the water was choppy, we were eager to see what lay beneath the surface.
The next day, however, was a different story altogether! We might as well have been swimming in a giant aquarium. There were so many fish. The water was crystal clear, teeming with colourful reef fish darting between rocks and coral. We swam until our fingers and toes went numb, wholly immersed in the underwater wonderland.
As we waited for a weather window to cross over to mainland Mexico, we kept an eye on the forecast, hoping to catch the tail end of the northerly winds before they died down too much. With a favourable weather window just a day away, we decided to head ashore for more exploration.
We loaded up the paddleboard with Sprocket, who still hadn’t fully recovered from his crash in Santa Barbara, and made our way to the beach. We had a smooth landing, and Sprocket wasted no time rolling in the sand—it had been a few days since he’d had the chance to stretch his legs on solid ground.
The shoreline was dotted with fishing pangas, RVs, and tiny houses belonging to local fishermen. We wandered up the sandy road, admiring the towering cacti. At the same time, Sprocket took his time investigating every stick and ensuring they were properly buried. Once everyone had their fill of the beach, we returned to the boat to prepare to cross the Sea of Cortez.
NM Sailed: 40
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