Sailing from Punta Mita to Mazatlán

Date: March 20–30, 2024

Miles Sailed: 206

Conditions: Light spring winds

Crew Status: Stoked

Setting Sail from Punta Mita to Mazatlan

Like most cruisers along Mexico’s Pacific coast, we had Mazatlán in our sights for one reason: the total solar eclipse in April. It was the talk of every anchorage, and the idea of being in the “zone of totality” made it worth the trip north.

On a calm morning, coffees in hand, we checked the forecast one last time, lifted anchor in Punta Mita, and pointed Raicilla north.

From Punta Mita to Chacala: Learning Anchoring Lessons

Clear skies and flat seas welcomed us as we motored around Punta de Mita. The wind hadn’t filled in yet, but the batteries were low, so motoring was fine. Within a few hours, a steady breeze pushed us along on a comfortable close reach toward Chacala.

Arriving in Chacala meant tackling the stern anchor setup. Our plan: drop the stern, motor forward, drop the bow, and snug everything tight. Reality: wrap the stern line on the prop, drift awkwardly across the anchorage, and scramble to recover. After a few tense moments, both anchors were set and the beers cracked open.

Chacala ended up being more than just a stopover. It turned into a reunion. Boats we’d met along the coast started trickling in, forming a little armada of cruisers all heading the same way…except one who was still going south.

It was a quick stopover in Chacala, but before leaving we managed to squeeze in a quick hike to see some petroglyphs which didn’t dissapoint.

Old rock stuff.

Sailing to San Blas: Mosquito Myths and Mangrove Adventures

The next leg took us to San Blas and Matanchen Bay, a place notorious among sailors for its mosquitoes and no-see-ums. With four other boats in company, it quickly turned into a race. With our embarrassingly dirty hull, Raicilla didn’t stand a chance. We crawled along at four knots while the other boats flew past at six, their crews heckling us over the radio.

By late afternoon we were ghosting over just 15 feet of water into Matanchen Bay. Heeding advice, we dropped anchor far from shore to escape the bugs. It worked. At least until we went ashore for a celebratory beer. Within minutes the mosquitos descended, but the palapa owners had a trick: lighting coconut husks to smoke them out.

San Blas itself was full of surprises. We toured the old Spanish fort with friends, wandered cobblestone streets, and hopped a panga ride through La Tovara mangroves, spotting crocodiles and a pile of different birds. The trip ended with banana bread from a famous roadside stand before we set our sights further north.

Isla Isabel: Beautiful but Brutal

Every cruiser we knew raved about Isla Isabel, calling it the “Galápagos of Mexico.” We hadn’t planned to stop but changed our minds last minute. That spontaneity backfired. By the time we arrived, the anchorage was packed, leaving us to wedge into a marginal spot on the outer edge.

For a brief moment, it felt worth it. Sliding into the water, we floated in a world of sights and sounds: humpback whales singing in the distance, fish schooling around our anchor chain. But the magic ended fast. The swell rolled straight in, turning Raicilla into a carnival ride. Worse, our chain snagged a rock, jerking violently every time the boat rolled. The sound made it feel like the bow was being torn off.

By morning, with swell now wrapping from the south, we called it. Freeing the chain from the rocks took some work, but we escaped before things got serious. Friends who stayed behind later said it was a nightmare trying to leave. Isla Isabel earned a spot on our “never again” list.

The Final Push: Sailing into Mazatlán

With Isla Isabel in our wake, we settled in for the final stretch to Mazatlán. Winds stayed light but steady, just forward of the beam. With a freshly cleaned bottom, Raicilla made better time than earlier in the week. We tacked through the night, trading watches under a clear sky scattered with stars.

At dawn, Mazatlán’s skyline came into view. We ghosted into the old harbor and dropped anchor as the city woke up around us. Banda music blared from passing tour boats, cruise ships loomed on the horizon, and pangas darted back and forth. We barely noticed. After a long overnight sail, the only thing on our minds was sleep.

Tired. Wondering why it’s so cold and foggy.

Reflections from the Passage

This run north reminded us of one of the joys of cruising: every anchorage has its own rhythm, quirks, and challenges. Chacala gave us a reunion with friends (and an anchoring mishap to laugh about). San Blas offered history, wildlife, and a lesson in the importance of a clean hull. Isla Isabel was a reminder that even the most beautiful destinations can be brutal when the conditions don’t line up.

Arriving in Mazatlán, we thought we’d only stay a short while to catch the eclipse. Little did we know, the city would keep us far longer. But that’s the beauty of sailing. You never really know where the wind, the weather, or the anchorage will take you.