A Deckhead Summer in the Sea
- Jaclyn Jeffrey
- Oct 13
- 4 min read
Date: April 28–June 24, 2024
Miles Sailed: 500
Conditions: All of them
Crew Status: Stoked (and still thinking about fuel)
We sailed into Agua Verde (well, kind of) on a sunny afternoon that started out as a race—except for SV Yasume, who cheated and motored the whole way. As the last boat to arrive, we decided to drop anchor in front of the beach near some friends who had been there for a few days. It seemed like a great idea at the time. Spoiler: it wasn’t.
Agua Verde: The start of dirtbag summer life
By nightfall, the swell had us rolling toe rail to toe rail, bringing back some serious Santa Barbara PTSD. By morning, we were done. We hauled anchor and squeezed into the north side of the anchorage where, in seven feet of water, we were practically within snack-passing distance of our friends. The forecast called for light winds, so we figured it would be fine…assuming we didn’t touch bottom at low tide.
Life in Agua Verde quickly fell into a rhythm. Spearfishing in the morning, sharing snacks and beers on the beach in the afternoon, and outdoor movie nights under the stars. We hiked the dusty trails, celebrated a few birthdays, and soaked in everything that makes cruising the Sea of Cortez what it is—hot, salty, and full of surprises.
After a couple of weeks, it was time to move north. The fuel tanks were low, and Puerto Escondido was calling. Some friends stayed behind, but promised to catch up later at Isla Carmen.
Puerto Escondido: Home for fancy cruisers
After an uneventful sail from Agua Verde, we grabbed a mooring ball at Puerto Escondido. The most expensive stop of our season. But it was worth it for one thing: showers. Ask any cruiser about this marina and that’s the first thing they’ll mention. Fancy shampoo, real soap, and endless hot water. Heaven.
With clean clothes and full water tanks, we decided to stretch our legs with a hike up Steinbeck Canyon alongside our Yasume buddies. We’d heard it was “a little tricky.” It was not a little tricky. The climb involved scaling narrow rock cracks and trusting frayed ropes that looked like they’d been installed sometime during the Steinbeck expedition itself. We got stuck, got scratched, but made it to the top. And, more importantly, back down alive.
We left Puerto Escondido with full fuel tanks and empty wallets, sailing around Isla Carmen and stopping at Bahia Salinas to explore the salt flats, Bahia Cobre to hide from westerlies, and finally V Cove for its perfect white sand.
San Juanico: More friends, more fish
After a quick provisioning stop in Loreto, our small fleet made its way to San Juanico. We arrived late in the day and dropped anchor in what turned out to be another rolly spot. The motion was relentless until a few boats cleared out and we were able to tuck into a more protected cove.
Days here blurred together with spearfishing (some more successful than others), beach walks, and movie nights. I’m still not good at spearfishing and have learned that almost any questionable-tasting fish can be disguised as fish sticks. Everything looks bigger underwater, and I’ve been guilty of accidentally catching a few baby fish.
After celebrating another birthday and collecting bits of obsidian from the shore, we turned our bows toward Bahia Concepción.
Bahia Concepción: Hot, hot, heat
By now, our small fleet had adopted a new nickname: The Deckheads. It came from a failed autocorrect of something far less polite, and it stuck. We hoisted every sail we had on the way to Concepción. Even Yasume joined in this time.
Speeds were slow, but spirits were high. We dropped the hook in Playa Domingo and settled in for a few days of pure ridiculousness. The days were hot, the nights even hotter, and the beach fires fuelled by bean dip, tequila, and questionable ocean snacks.
We ventured deeper into the bay in search of hot springs and petroglyphs, finding both, along with some excellent piña coladas at a tiny beach café. Eventually, it was time to say goodbye. Some of our friends had haul-outs scheduled farther north in San Carlos, while others planned to linger in the mid-bay for a while longer.
Blasting North
With our own haul-out date coming up, we pushed north. Quick stops in Santa Rosalía (where we scored the best tortillas in the Sea of Cortez and a bonus cockroach from the laundry lady) and San Francisquito broke up the trip.
By the time we reached Puerto Don Juan, we thought we’d seen it all—until we met the Baja bees. It started innocently enough, lunch aboard Yasume and the faint sound of buzzing. Minutes later, the boat was full of bees feasting on spilled sweet tea. I was out immediately. I retreated to our bee-free boat while Mark and Travis spent hours clearing them out.
A few days later, it was time to say temporary goodbyes. Travis stayed behind while we sailed to Puerto Refugio to wait for the right weather window for our final crossing to Puerto Peñasco.
The end of a Deckhead Summer
The north winds, the long passages, the endless heat and none of it mattered much once we realized how far we’d come. Five hundred miles, countless memories, and a season that reminded us why we keep choosing this stupid life. Cruising the Sea of Cortez isn’t always easy, but it’s always worth it.
Deckhead summer has so many amazing adventures on the Sea of Cortez! What an adventurous summer. Great pictures and friends! Looks like sooo much fun! Enjoy!