Crossing the Sea of Cortez & first summer stops

Date: April 18–27, 2024

Miles Sailed: 333

Conditions: All of them

Crew Status: Stoked (and stressed about fuel)

Crossing into the Sea of Cortez

“Capitanía de Puerto Mazatlán, velero Raicilla, solicito permiso para zarpe.” We called over the radio, asking permission to leave the busy Mazatlán harbor.

“Yes, but you need to be quick. There’s a ship leaving.” That’s when we peeked behind us to see a massive container ship on its way.

We were finally leaving Mazatlán, and the mainland, behind for a summer of Sea of Cortez cruising. Little did we know that the best times ahead would be with a group of friends we hadn’t met yet, traveling along the Baja coast. Some even continuing with us into the boatyard.

The Sea of Cortez crossing

In Mexico, winds typically come from the north. And that’s exactly where we were headed. Anyone who knows me knows I hate sailing into the wind. We’d been patiently waiting for the southerly breezes that often show up in spring and summer. Finally they hard arrived, albeit lightly.

Armed with advice to sail when possible and motor north when necessary, we aimed to make it to Isla Espíritu Santo on the Baja side. Or, in a best case scenario, further north to meet friends already anchored there.

The seas were calm, and winds were low. A dirty bottom from sitting in Mazatlán slowed us even further. Motoring became the main mode of travel, punctuated with short periods of sailing. Days passed with the hum of the engine and sightings of turtles— a.k.a the “speed bumps of the sea.”

Fuel became a concern. Could we motor across 230 miles with small tanks? We were about to find out. In the meantime, we ate well with pizza, bread, and cookies coming from the galley. Not starving, but constantly aware of our fuel situation.

The endless blue of a windless sea.

Baja found: Bonanza beach

Finally, winds appeared for the last 10 miles. We hadn’t aimed as far north as friends who had found wind on day one and sailed straight to Agua Verde. Instead, we dropped anchor at Bonanza Beach, our first Baja anchorage.

Jumping in, we were shocked by the cold water. After months in mainland tropical waters, we weren’t ready for Baja’s cooler temperatures (spoiler: it never fully warmed). Quickly back aboard to warm up. It didn’t matter because we made it to the Baja!

Fuel concerns returned. With only one jerry can left, the next refuel points were La Paz or Puerto Escondido. La Paz was logical, but we preferred to avoid it. Friends in Agua Verde promised they might have fuel if needed. After some calculations, we decided to sail 99.999% of the way and hope for the best because we didn’t have fuel for more than coming in and out of anchorages.

Sailing in the last miles to Bonanza Beach

Transiting Baja Sur without fuel

Bonanza Beach was a brief rest stop. The winds picked up mid-morning, and we set off to Isla San Francisco for a sundowner and spaghetti with friends. Paddleboards hit the water, anchoring and exploring made for a perfect evening.

The next day, we sailed 10 miles to San Evaristo. The rumoured local taco spot was closed, but a local fisherman-turned-chef welcomed us into his home. Fresh Mahi tacos and flour tortillas made the detour worthwhile.

Pushing north toward Los Gatos anchorage, we hoped to sail most of the 30 miles. Winds fluctuated. A spinnaker went up; ultimately, we turned on the engine to reach the anchorage before nightfall. All while painfully aware of the fuel gauge.

Our first Baja anchorage. Bonanza Beach.

Los Gatos: red rocks and remote beauty

Los Gatos was exactly what I had imagined Baja Sur sailing was: red rocks rising from crystal-clear waters, a desert-meets-sea landscape.

A few boats were already anchored, and we met the crew of SV Yasume with the classic “guy yelling from the bow” moves. Soon, we had joined other cruisers for our first beach bonfire of the summer.

Spearfishing missions began almost immediately. We returned with a mix of fish (some dinner-worthy, some dog food). After riding out a quick northerly wind system, we prepared to continue north the next day.

Los Gatos.

Sailing from Los Gatos to Agua Verde

Our group grew from two to four boats. The armada split for impromptu spearfishing and an overnight stop at Ensenada la Ballena to explore sea caves. The anchorage was the darkest we’d ever seen. No lights, just the stars and anchor lights.

A dinghy tour of the caves in the morning, then off to Agua Verde anchorage. Yasume motored, while we and the Donna June raced with light winds. A fun sail, arriving with fumes to spare.

Agua Verde quickly anchored itself into our hearts as a highlight of the Sea of Cortez summer cruising.  How could it get better?

We were about to find out.

Heading to the sea caves.

Quick pit stop in San Evaristo.