Long Stay in Mazatlán: Eclipse, Residency & Old City Charm

Date: March 30–April 18, 2024

Miles Sailed: 0

Conditions: Calm anchorage and city life

Crew Status: Stoked and rested

Anchored in Mazatlán

We slipped quietly into Mazatlán in the early hours of the morning, announcing our arrival to the harbormaster in broken Spanish. Luckily, the entrance was clear of traffic, and we cruised in without issue. By the time we dropped the anchor, we were ready for a long sleep.

The original plan was simple: stop for the 2024 total solar eclipse in Mazatlán, then head deeper into the Sea of Cortez for the summer. But as cruising often goes, plans change. What was meant to be a quick pause turned into three weeks of exploring the city, soaking up the local culture, and even becoming official temporary residents of Mexico.

Sunsets over the Mazatlan harbour

A Once-in-a-Lifetime Event: The 2024 Total Solar Eclipse

Mazatlán was one of the best places on Earth to witness the total solar eclipse of April 2024, the first total eclipse in the Americas in seven years. Mark had been excited about it for months.

We could have joined one of the many viewing parties across the city, but we opted for something quieter. From the deck of our anchored boat, less than a mile away from the path of totality, we set up cameras and donned our eclipse glasses.

The transformation was incredible. The sky got dark, it got noticeably colder, and the city went quiet. When totality hit, we removed our glasses and stared in awe at the darkened sun, its corona glowing brilliantly. Mazatlán felt suspended in time. And then, as suddenly as it began, it ended. Cheers and celebrations echoed through the anchorage.

It was one of those rare moments that we won’t ever forget. Cruising brings plenty of unexpected beauty, but watching the eclipse above our floating home was unforgettable.

Just a glimpse of the eclipse.

Exploring Mazatlán: Malecon Strolls & Old Town Wanderings

Before and after the eclipse, our days were a mix of small-boat chores and big-city adventures.

The Malecón

Mazatlán’s malecón is one of the longest in Mexico, stretching 13 miles along the waterfront. Every day we walked sections of it with Sprocket, chatting with vendors, practicing our Spanish, and watching fishermen haul in their catches. Sometimes we stopped for ceviche or aguachile at beachside stands, the perfect midday treat. On one evening stroll, we paused for the cliff diver show—smaller scale than Acapulco’s, but no less thrilling.

Back from fishing.

The Historic Center

When dog walks were done, we wandered deeper into the historic center, or centro, of Mazatlán. Bright colonial buildings have been transformed into cozy cafés, restaurants, and boutique shops. Plaza Machado quickly became a favorite spot for people-watching with an ice cream in hand.

Streets lit up at night.

Pino Juárez Market

Our most regular stop was the Pino Juárez market. It became our go-to for fresh chicken. Our favorite butcher proudly claimed his was the best in Mexico, and after tasting it, we believe him. The vegetable stalls were pricier than we liked, so we sourced produce elsewhere, but the market’s stacked displays of fruit and spices kept us coming back.

Mazatlán was a city of routines for us: morning market runs, long walks on the malecón, and slow afternoons exploring plazas and side streets. After months of small coastal towns, the energy of a bigger city felt refreshing.

Pricey. But pretty.

Bureaucracy at the Dock: Becoming Temporary Residents of Mexico

By mid-April, our tourist visas were about to expire. We had two choices: leave Mexico for a quick “border run” and return with new visas, or take the plunge and apply for temporary residency. Thanks to a little quirk from our earlier pandemic-era trip, we qualified to apply without the usual hoops.

That didn’t mean it was easy. The process involved filling out thick stacks of paperwork (all in Spanish), paying fees, and navigating a few hiccups. We first went to immigration to collect the forms, then ducked into a nearby tienda where a helpful woman filled everything out for us.

The hardest part? After waiting hours in line, our credit card stopped working mid-payment. Cue a frantic dash back to the boat for another card. But in true Mexico fashion, it all worked out. At the end of it, we walked out with temporary residency visas valid for four years. No more border runs. Just the freedom to stay in the country we’ve come to love.

For us, this felt like a milestone: Mexico isn’t just a stop along the way anymore. It’s home, at least for now.

Might be official residents, but still tourists

Reflections on a Month in Mazatlán

Three weeks may not sound long, but for us, used to moving every few days, it felt like forever. And in that time, Mazatlán shifted from being just another stop on the chart to a place that felt familiar.

The pace of city life - ice cream in the square, conversations at the butcher’s counter, walks on the malecón - was a stark contrast to our usual beach anchorages and small fishing towns. The city offered everything we didn’t know we were missing: culture, food, , and a chance to be still.

We left Mazatlán rested and recharged. Grateful for the eclipse that stopped us in our tracks, for the residency that made us official, and for a city that welcomed us with open arms.

And yes, we’ll definitely be back…even if only to stock up on chicken.