October 15, 2023
We arrived in Ensenada, Baja California, on a weekend, so we weren't officially checked into Mexico. The marina staff reassured us it would be fine if we "didn't get into trouble." Naturally, the first thing we did was head out for celebratory margaritas!
Checking in to Ensenada, Mexico
Staying at Cruiseport Marina was a smart choice. The marina staff had already prepared all our documents for checking into Mexico, obtaining the TIP (Temporary Import Permit), and registering with the port captain. All we had to do was show up with the necessary fees.
On our second day, we joined other cruisers in a van, heading first to the bank and then to the port captain's office. The process was smooth; after about an hour, we received our tourist visas and the boat's TIP, officially making us legal in Mexico.
Marina Life in Ensenada
We had pre-booked our marina stay at Cruiseport, one of the three main marinas in Ensenada. It offered a great location behind two breakwaters, reducing ocean swell, and was away from the bustling tourist areas. We quickly adapted to marina life, enjoying the convenience of having water at our slip, although it wasn't drinkable. Mark eventually rigged a system to make the water safe to drink.
One of the downsides of Cruiseport Marina is its proximity to the cruise ship docks. While this means excellent security, it also comes with noise and pollution. Music blared from mid-morning to evening, and the exhaust from the ships left a layer of grime on our boat, necessitating frequent deck washing.
The marina's laundry facilities were disappointing, with many machines out of order and high prices. This led us to discover the convenience of using a Lavanderia, where our laundry was washed and folded for us—a fantastic solution!
Discovering the Best Food in Ensenada
Our original plan was to spend the month fixing things on the boat and upgrading. Still, we indulged in Ensenada's vibrant food scene instead. Our culinary adventure started with a hunt for the best tacos and margaritas. We tried Tacos Floresta, a famous taco stand known for its busy and lively atmosphere. We quickly learned the local etiquette: order, eat, and then pay—a bit different from our Canadian customs.
Beyond fish tacos, Ensenada has a lot to offer. We spent an afternoon at La Guerrerense, enjoying award-winning tostadas and cocktails. No wonder it was an Anthony Bourdain favourite! Another highlight was dining at La Hoguera, a hidden gem with a spacious courtyard and some of our best food during our stay. We also visited Hussong's and Bar Andaluz with local friends who claimed to have invented the margarita. After extensive tasting, we favoured Hussong's for its simple yet delicious margaritas.
Outdoor Adventures and Sightseeing in Ensenada
Our time in Ensenada also included outdoor adventures. We discovered a love for surfing, spending many mornings at Playa Hermosa and Tres Emes with SurfEnsenada.Â
One day, we joined other boat crews for a trip to La Bufadora, a natural blowhole known for its spectacular water sprays. Timing it right, we saw impressive eruptions and explored the nearby cliffs. Another memorable day was spent paddle boarding near La Bufadora, exploring sea caves and enjoying the stunning coastal scenery. We even tried cliff diving and swimming through underwater tunnels—a thrilling experience!
Surprisingly Ensenada is home to some of the best vineyards in Mexico in Valle De Guadeloupe. Our friends on Cariba and Brigadoon arranged a full day of touring wineries through Calandria Experience. Andrea picked us up and drove us to some of the smaller wineries in the area so we were often the only people there. We started the day knowing noting, and not being interested, about wine but ending the day with an appreciation for the little rotten grapes. The highlight was visiting Lechuza, where we found ourselves in the cellar drinking a bottle of their nicest wine. Needless to say, the day ended with our pockets empty, but the truck full of wine.
Preparing to Leave Ensenada
As our month in Ensenada ended, we prepared for the next leg of our journey. The marina staff helped us with the checkout process, ensuring everything was in order.
On an early morning in November, we cast off from Cruiseport Marina, setting sail towards Bahia Tortugas. We were excited about the new adventures that awaited us.
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